Graubünden Chardonnay: From an Illegal Vineyard to World-Class Recognition
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Anyone walking through the vineyards of Malans today would never guess that one of Switzerland’s most remarkable wine success stories began with an act of defiance against the regulations of its time.
At this year's London Wine Fair, the Unique Chardonnay Malans 2024 from Domaine Donatsch was named one of the ten best Chardonnays in the world. This places a wine from Switzerland’s Graubünden region alongside some of the most renowned Chardonnay-producing areas on the planet, including Burgundy, Champagne, Margaret River and Central Otago.
For the Swiss wine industry, this is far more than just another award. It is a powerful recognition of the exceptional quality, craftsmanship and international potential of Swiss wines.
The Rebel Chardonnay of Malans
The story begins around 50 years ago.
Back then, Thomas “Thomi” Donatsch planted Chardonnay vines in Malans, even though the variety had not yet been approved for cultivation in Switzerland. The authorities ordered him to remove the vines.
But Donatsch was convinced that Chardonnay was perfectly suited to the unique terroir of the Bündner Herrschaft. He refused to comply, famously replying that he would gladly provide the pickaxe and rubber boots, but that the authorities would have to do the work themselves. Rather than uprooting the vines, he chose to pay a substantial fine and remained steadfast in his vision.
Today, that very decision is regarded as a milestone in the history of Swiss wine. What was once considered a breach of regulations has become one of the defining success stories of modern Swiss viticulture.
Why Chardonnay Thrives Here
The Bündner Herrschaft offers everything Chardonnay loves: warm, sunny days, cool alpine nights, southerndry föhn winds and mineral-rich soils shaped by ancient glaciers and limestone deposits.
These unique conditions allow the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly, preserving freshness while developing remarkable depth and complexity. The result is a style of Chardonnay that combines elegance, precision and vibrant acidity with impressive structure and ageing potential.
It is no coincidence that some of Switzerland’s finest Chardonnays come from this small corner of the Alps. The region’s terroir gives the wines a distinctive character that is increasingly earning recognition far beyond Switzerland’s borders.
A Family Legacy
For Martin Donatsch, this achievement carries a deeply personal meaning.
The 2024 vintage is dedicated to his father, Thomas “Tomi” Donatsch, who passed away in the same year. It is therefore much more than an international award - it is a tribute to a visionary winemaker whose courage and conviction helped shape the future of Swiss wine.
The Donatsch family has been at the forefront of innovation in the Bündner Herrschaft for generations. Tomi's pioneering spirit laid the foundation, and today Martin continues that legacy with the same uncompromising commitment to quality.
What began as a bold idea in a small vineyard in Malans has become a family story that continues to inspire wine lovers far beyond Switzerland's borders.
A Success for All of Switzerland
This achievement extends far beyond Malans and the Donatsch family.
Despite producing wines of exceptional quality, Switzerland remains one of the world's best-kept wine secrets. Around 98% of Swiss wine is enjoyed within the country, meaning very few bottles ever reach international markets.
That is why recognitions like this matter. They shine a spotlight not only on a single winery, but on an entire wine-growing nation. They demonstrate that Swiss wines can stand alongside the world's most celebrated regions and compete at the very highest level.
Fifty years ago, the Chardonnay vines in Malans were supposed to be uprooted.
Today, a Chardonnay from Malans is ranked among the ten best in the world.
Sometimes, great wine begins with the courage to challenge convention.
Our Tip
When visiting the Bündner Herrschaft, make sure to discover Chardonnay alongside the region’s famous Pinot Noir. Few grape varieties showcase the international potential of the vineyards between Malans, Jenins, Maienfeld and Fläsch as impressively as Chardonnay.
And if you're looking for something truly special, ask about our Rare Wine Tastings featuring selected bottles from our private cellar. Some remarkable treasures are waiting to be discovered including this amazing Chardonnay UNIQUE 2024!
